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« Last post by BeToney on Today at 11:18 pm »
Dave, from what I've been reading; for sports bikes every year if possible or every 10,000 miles; for tourers and cruisers that can be doubled. Mine has just passed the 10k point but is 10 years old next month, and I suspect my oil could be the original... gulp!
Very True. The suspension is constantly cycling up and down, metal on metal sometimes several times a second, the fluid breaks down and gets contaminated with micro particles. Same with the final drive oil, I just replaced mine for the 2nd time at 20k miles and it was a nasty black, foul smelling mess, especially since it is almost clear like light yellow colored water when new.
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« Last post by Hound on Today at 10:26 pm »
Matt - Cool, I'm sure it'll be a revelation compared to 3-year-old oil. That Motul's rated as SAE 10W. I couldn't find any kinematic viscosity details on the Hyperpro 15W you have now; it's probably someone else's oil repackaged anyway. Let us know how you get on!
I'm tall and heavy and I think I need 15W with similar spec to BeToney's.
Dave, from what I've been reading; for sports bikes every year if possible or every 10,000 miles; for tourers and cruisers that can be doubled. Mine has just passed the 10k point but is 10 years old next month, and I suspect my oil could be the original... gulp!
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« Last post by t15dja on Today at 10:14 pm »
This has been a popular subject of late, hasn't it? Is there a recommended frequency or mileage, then, for changing the fork oil? If not, and to feed my curiosity, why does it need to be done? Don't think I've seen it mentioned anywhere as a regular service item....unless I've missed it.
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« Last post by matt28 on Today at 08:57 pm »
Hound, I will go for Motul Factory line Medium 100% Synthetic, which is 36 CST@40*C My current fork oil is nearly 3 years old.
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« Last post by Hound on Today at 05:27 pm »
Matt, that appears to be the oil that Honda recommends in the service manual. Manufactured (or "Manufacutured") by KYB, who are Kayaba. The "15-10" is misleading as it's classed as SAE 5W. See alternative eBay seller here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262144128126Useful viscosity table. I found that one and another: http://dynojet.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Fork-oil.pdfI assume your Hyperpro springs are heavier than the OEM, and you still have 15W oil, so it can't be doing any harm! Thanks again to BeToney for his "review" and all the useful information. 
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As per the title; I'm located near Wakefield in West Yorkshire in case a buyer wanted to collect. One full set of genuine Honda front brake pads for the Crosstourer, packaging a bit scruffy but unopened. These retail for over £90, can I say £50 plus postage?  Also a set of Givi quick release PLXR-1110 racks to fit the V35 boxes (with the curved backs). These are like new, apart from fitting the small brackets that fix onto the pillion peg hangers I never actually used the racks at all! They retail for in the region of £200. Asking £100 plus postage. 
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As per the title; set of genuine Honda front brake pads for the Crosstourer, packaging a bit scruffy but unopened. These retail for over £90, can I say £50 plus postage? Also a set of Givi quick release PLXR-1110 racks to fit the V35 boxes (with the curved backs). These are like new, apart from fitting the small brackets that fix onto the pillion peg hangers I never actually used the racks at all! They retail for in the region of £200. Asking £100 plus postage.
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« Last post by matt28 on Today at 04:30 pm »
What do you think about this one: https://www.ebay.nl/itm/283468297587?hash=item420006f573:g:iI0AAOSwSspggUZbKHL 15-10 but Kawasaki logo on it? Also, found this article https://transmoto.com.au/comparative-oil-weights-table/I do have Hyperpro progressive springs installed, and oil which is inside box with springs is Hyperpro 15W
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« Last post by BeToney on Today at 03:46 pm »
Thank you for the video BeToney,
By doing this method ( in the video) you will only remove a larger percentage of the oil, some will be left in the cartridge, hence the difference between 400mm and 540mm. The other problem with this method is , if some oil has weeped out of the fork over time, it will be low and a different level to the other leg, so, if you pour 400mm out and replace 400mm it will still be low and act differently to the other leg. just worth noting.
Your comment is correct. I am pretty specific about fluid volume measurements for my vehicles, so I double checked and them let it settle and measured again with both fork legs draining the old fluid into a ratio-rite graduated container for accurate measurement. I followed the video, pouring out the oil, pumping the fork, draining again, pumping the fork and measuring yet again and both fork legs measured right at 400ml of old oil drained out. One thing worth noting in this thread is oil viscosity and the oil volume/ air gap is subjective and each rider may prefer something different, I'm just posting the procedure and MY preferred settings, I very well could have chosen 20w oil and a full 500ml.
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« Last post by BeToney on Today at 03:16 pm »
Interested in your views on the T32's, ( not for my CT, a friend wants me to fit a set for him).
Tom
The Bridgestone T32's are another great tire choice, I have also used the previous T31 and T30 as well as their sport S22, S21 and S20. Surprisingly, I get almost the same mileage from their "S" or "T" models on my Yamaha Tracer (I haven't used the Bridgestones yet on the big CT). I tend to ride a bit more on the "sport" side and the Bridgestones stick nicely and handle neutral in the twisty or fast roads, if you are familiar with the Tracer you know that gem of a motor loves to rev and brings out the inner hooligan - the CT is my responsible "grown-up" bike. The Bridgestone T32 also works very well in the rain, lots of water channels on the outer edges for cornering. I don't know anything about mounting them but have heard that they can be stiffer than some other brands.
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