Changing the front two spark plugs

[CT_Ron]

Has anyone tried changing the front two spark plugs?

I really want to change mine prior to the start of winter. I estimate they are used for at least 50.000 km. I don't notice anything strange going on right now, but I like my bike in tip top shape. I saw that the rear two, which are super easy to acces, have some disturbing wear on them (black rims). I tried doing it last winter, but I failed. I had no idea how to reach that cramped space and which tools to use, so I aborted mission and just went with the old ones this year.

Thanks!

[Big-red]

Hi Ron
I changed mine for the first time 2 weeks ago at 53K (due at 48K) the reason was that I had to remove the fuel tank to get a small dent removed. With time up my sleeve while i had the tank off I decided to do the plugs. To set the scene I am a very confident home mechanic as such i wasn't to concerned at the task ahead. However it turned out to be a lot more involved than I could have anticipated and it took a lot longer than I expected, as I took the opportunity to do lots of other jobs whilst I was going (eg de-greased inside of the air box, de-greased all the air trumpets, cleaned the throttle bodies etc) To get to the plugs and change them if that's all you are doing I'm guessing it would take approx 3 hrs (I spent the full day due to doing the other bits and pieces) Now to get to the front 2 plugs the air box has to be completely removed (its held on by the throttle body trumpets inside the airbox 3 are the same no 4 is different It's marked) then gently move all the electrics in the front section of the frame and attached to the airbox (I chose not to disconnect these main electrics as I wasn't sure what might need resetting etc. I did disconnect the smaller ones around the airbox) but the main stuff can comfortably be moved off to the sides around and near the head stem. The coil packs and plugs can now be accessed all from the top (deep inside) of the frame area. 
Key points
I fully removed the fuel tank (not sure if they would in the workshop) gives much better access to the top of the engine area.   
You MUST use the genuine Honda vfr1200x plug spanner (nothing else will go down into the plug cavity it's tight)
Airbox must be completely removed
The main electrics can remain connected and pushed aside.
Good luck (I didn't have the benefit of hindsight)
 
 
 
   

[CT_Ron]

Thanks for taking the time! The furthest I got before aborting was getting the fuel tank off, get the airbox off, including the 4 trumpets you mentioned, removed the rest of the plastic housing and some small electronic wires and then got really nervous looking at the 'air house intake' (???) Those metal or brass like valves and it's construction, if you know what I mean. I was hesitant if I had to remove that too. No way my thick sausage like fingers could squeeze past it and I didnt noticed I own the Honda plug spanner a month later. About the spanner, you mean the one in the picture, correct?

So for the record:

- I DON'T have to remove the air valve intake? Just the filter, plastic housing, trumpets and  some electric components?

- You've reached the plugs from the top, not squeezed horizontally past the air intake valves?

(Edit: problem uploading picture, see my reply below).

[CT_Ron]

[Big-red]

Hi - sorry if I created an unclear picture.
No you; DON'T have to remove the air valve intake?
Yes you; remove the filter, plastic housing, trumpets and  some electric components?
Yes; You reach the plugs from the top, (from and down from the most forward area of the frame, looking from the top of the frame you need to be looking down toward the top of the radiator area they are down there.
No; horizontally past the air intake valves? (make sure you place a cover of some kind over the top of the throttle bodies, to stop any foreign dirt/parts etc falling into directly into the internals of engine     
No; not squeezed horizontally past the air intake valves?
Unfortunately I don't have any pics but once the plastics are removed and electrices are out of the way you can see the the 2 coil packs on top of the spark plugs, pry them up (they are rubber and tightly sealed to prevent anything getting down to the base of the spark plug). Then the genuine Honda plug spanner can with a bit of wriggling will go down into the cylinder head. (the right side just needed a bit extra fiddling with the plug spanner) Although it sounds daunting this is a fiddly job not an impossible job no scun nuckles just patience. your not actually touching or removing anything mechanical just peripheral parts. once you get to the plugs it's a 10 minute job.
However taking into account all of the above tackling the valve clearances on the front bank absolutely NO way. (and id place a bet neither do some dealers)   Hope this helps and clarifies things (it's harder to explain than do)

[Big-red]

Sorry, Yes that's the genuine Honda plug spanner in the picture. 

[CT_Ron]

Noted, thanks! No pictures needed. I had the required parts dismantled a few times already, I just thought the throttle body had to be removed too. This will help me greatly, thanks again!

PS: did you buy the NGK or the Denso ones?

[Big-red]

NGK - of the 2 options NGK was the OEM plug listed by Honda so i stayed with that, not sure if mine were original? NGK were in it. As stated mine were performing perfectly i just chose to replace them whilst i had the opportunity plus i didn't know when or if they had ever been done previously. I got the bike at 35k (dealer serviced from new) and it's now at 54k. Honda service spec states change at 48k (only found this out when buying the new plugs.)Typical for irridium plugs expensive  $45.00 AUD each but the when you think about how hard they work and their 50k life span it's good value. At that rate i doubt I'll ever need to change them again. By then I'll be on the forum asking for guidance as to how to change the plugs ha! ha! Enjoy