Strange electrical fault

[thetrecker]

This is a basic low voltage problem, if the relays are clicking and all lights go out when you introduce the biggest load on the system - the starter motor, it is a low voltage problem.
Get a multimeter, go back to the start, check battery voltage, it should be 12.7 volts fully charged, try the battery in another bike if possible. Take off all earth points and clean them. check the lead from the battery to the starter solenoid and then the lead from the solenoid to the starter. Make sure all connections are tight.
Let us know what happens when you have all this checked.
It is not the problem that McGrath has described, he was only giving an example of a problem he had on a previous bike. The Crosstourer has LED tail lights, so him problem does not apply here.
Best of luck
Tom

[thetrecker]

The battery should be a Yuasa YTZ14S AGM (absorbent glass mat ) type battery, 11.8AH, 230CCA ( cold cranking amps). It should not be a standard lead acid type.
It must have a 230CCA rating for our Crosstourer.
Cheaper batteries fail quickly, so stick to a Yuasa if you can.
Also, a battery can seem fully charged according to your charger ( it shows a green light) but does not have the capacity to start the bike.A booster pack can rule out a faulty battery.

Hope this helps
Tom

[wojcimierz]

thanks @thetrecker for the detailed description. I've asked @moony54 about the solution altough my problem is a bit different. He seems to had poor ground connection problem maybe under the right cowl ground point or some short in the circuit so it was worth to ask if he found that somewhere.
My low beam headlight seems to turn off occasionally when I ride while the hi beam works fine all the time.
I've looked on the vfr1200x electrical wiring scheme and I suspect poor connection on the left or right handlebar controllers or the headlight relay itself.
Of course I've replaced the bulb itself and fuse and checked the ground points but I think ground is not the problem as the hi-beam uses the same ground wire as the low-beam bulb.

[thetrecker]

Dobry wieczor Wojcimierz,
I have seen plenty of lamp holders burn out especially with a bulb that is lit the whole time ( like the low beam on our CT's ). It works fine from cold but as the connection heats up with the load, the pins spread slightly and looses connection, Bulb goes out, current stops flowing, cools down and then the bulb lights again!. If you inspect the lampholder, you may see burning/ swelling of the black plastic block around the 2 female tabs that connect with the bulb. It is possible to remove the metal tabs/ inserts of the H7 lampholder and gently squeeze them with a pliers to see will that help with the intermittent fault .

Tom

[thetrecker]

https://www.halfords.ie/tools/fuses-electricals-fittings/electricals/halfords-h7-bulb-holder-hef-368-869610.html.
You can buy a new lampholder quite cheap. It is a popular item for sale.

Tom

[wojcimierz]

I've found damaged positive wire near the headlight 4p connector and now everything is back to normal 

[thetrecker]

Great.
I was confused with this post, as the problem Mooner54 started the thread with changed to your problem
Great you got it sorted.
okrzyki
Tom